From Capital City to Middle-earth: Wellington, Waikato, Rotorua & the Road North - March 2023

After the raw wilderness of Fiordland, we flew back to New Zealand’s North Island, easing once more into city life before heading north through green farmland, geothermal landscapes, and finally into storybook fantasy.

Almost immediately, we were reminded of something we’d noticed throughout the trip: New Zealand simply does everyday life better. The airports were calm, beautiful, and human-scaled. The food — everywhere — was fresher, lighter, and more thoughtful than what you find in most American casual restaurants.

Somewhere along the way, I became completely addicted to savory scones and crisp green salads — simple, nourishing food done exceptionally well.

Wellington: Culture, Views, and a Birthday in the Capital

We landed in Wellington, New Zealand’s compact and creative capital, and checked into the Bolton Hotel, perfectly situated right in downtown within walking distance of the waterfront, museums, cafés, and cultural landmarks.

The Bolton felt refined and welcoming — an ideal urban base. That evening, we celebrated my birthday with dinner at the hotel, a quiet and meaningful pause in the middle of an extraordinary journey. There’s something grounding about marking time and milestones while halfway around the world.

One of Wellington’s most iconic experiences is the historic cable car, which climbs astonishingly steep hills from the city center to the heights above. The ride itself is charming and nostalgic, and at the top sits the Cable Car Museum, which tells the story of how this small, hilly city engineered its way upward over time.

From the lookout, we were rewarded with sweeping views across the harbor, rooftops, and rolling green hills — wind whipping, clouds racing, the city spread out below us.

From there, we wandered into the Botanic Gardens and wildlife reserve, a peaceful green refuge above the city. Winding paths led through native plants and quiet clearings, and tucked within the reserve is the historic Morning Star Gold Mine, a reminder that even Wellington once pulsed with gold-rush ambition.

North Through Waikato: Green Roads and Open Space

Leaving Wellington, we drove north through the Waikato region, where the landscape opens into rolling farmland, wide rivers, and endless shades of green. This is pastoral New Zealand — calm, spacious, and deeply rooted in agriculture.

The drive itself became part of the adventure, with long stretches of road that invite reflection and conversation, the scenery shifting gently mile by mile.

Taupō & Tauranga: Water, Rest, and Simple Joy

We based ourselves near Taupō, staying at the Beechtree Motel, one of the area’s newer and more comfortable options — simple, stylish, and perfectly suited to an active stay.

Life here revolved around water. We spent time kayaking, enjoying the stillness of the lake, and visiting nearby beaches, soaking in the contrast between volcanic terrain and calm, blue expanses. Taupō felt relaxed and restorative — a place to breathe deeply after days of constant movement.

This part of the journey reminded us that adventure doesn’t always need drama. Sometimes it’s enough to paddle quietly, sit by the water, and let the pace slow.

Rotorua: Steam, Story, and Living Culture

From Taupō, we continued on to Rotorua, a place unlike anywhere else in New Zealand.

Rotorua sits atop one of the most geothermally active areas in the country. Steam rises from the ground. The air carries the unmistakable scent of sulfur. The land feels alive beneath your feet.

We visited the thermal reserve, where bubbling mud pools, erupting geysers, and mineral-rich landscapes showcase the raw power just below the surface. It’s fascinating, slightly surreal, and impossible to forget.

Rotorua is also a center of Māori culture, and we spent time at the cultural center, learning about traditional crafts, performance, and storytelling that remain deeply woven into daily life. The experience felt respectful, immersive, and meaningful — culture presented not as a performance, but as something lived and honored.

We also visited the Kiwi conservation center, where efforts are underway to protect New Zealand’s iconic, endangered bird. Seeing these elusive creatures up close underscored the country’s deep commitment to conservation and stewardship.

Hobbiton: A Perfect Final Chapter

Our final adventure took us into the rolling green hills near Matamata — to Hobbiton Movie Set.

Walking into the Shire felt like stepping into a dream. Every detail — the hobbit holes, gardens, fences, and winding paths — was lovingly maintained and quietly enchanting. It was whimsical without being silly, nostalgic without feeling staged.

We wandered through Middle-earth, ending at the Green Dragon Inn, raising a glass in a place that exists somewhere between fantasy and reality.

It was the perfect ending.

✨ Reflection

This chapter of the journey brought everything together:

Culture and countryside.
Steam and water.
History, imagination, and quiet joy.

From Wellington’s wind-swept hills to Rotorua’s living earth, from peaceful lakes to storybook landscapes, New Zealand revealed itself not just as a destination — but as a place that honors land, story, and balance.

And then, gently, it was time to go home.